Altitude & Sickness
We got our money in Cajamarca and, feeling that we deserved it after the arduous journey over dusty mountain passes, went to chill in los baños del Inca, hot springs. It was great. We took our soap and shampoo and scrubbed ourselves stupid. Feeling a lot better we wandered around the market, but there wasn't much to excite so the next day we left for Trujillo, a city that I loved.
On our first night we wandered all around the town and got completely lost. We walked through markets and streets with loud music and bright lights that dazzled us. We went in an 'English' theme pub which didn’t serve bitter but where I was permitted to spend a whopping 11 soles on a G&T. Well worth it! I'd been looking for G&T in Ecuador and never found one. We went into a beer room (that's all it is it's - a room where beer is sold) and spoke to some Peruvians who, on finding out we were British, commiserated with us about the London bombings and asked how we felt. It was a difficult conversation as much of the vocab I needed was lacking. I feebly came out with 'it's very sad'.
As we set off again about the back streets with our Lonely Planet in hand we were accosted by a friendly Peruvian who spoke very good English. She advised us not to go the way we were headed as it was quite dangerous and we'd probably get robbed. She pointed out to us the safest way back to the town square. We thanked her and headed back to our digs. As we walked we realized that this ‘dodgy’ part of town had probably been the bit with all the music and lights and felt relieved that we were returning to our hostel in possession of everything we'd left with.
A few days later Carol and her boyfriend Donald arrived in Trujillo. We spent a day on the beach at Huanchaco before heading up to Huaraz (the Chamonix of Peru) to play around in the foothills of the Cordilleria Blanca – the mountains where Touching the Void all happened! On the first day we took a short walk up to the local ruins and returned via some hot baths. The day after, we tried a slightly longer walk up to a lagoon where Andrew went swimming in the meltwater lake, silly boy. We started the walk at 4000m and went up to about 4600m. It took us 3 hours to get up there although I’m not sure of the mileage as we did it mainly to acclimatize to the altitude. Carol and Donald both had headaches and I didn’t feel great, even when we got back down below 3500m.
As I write, Carol, Donald and Andrew have left to go on the Santa Cruz trek and should be back in around 4 days. I’m left behind as I’m recovering from a bout of Gringo lurgy. They’ve put me on a course of antibiotics and anti-poo syrup (as Donald refers to it. He's in his 2nd year of medical school so must be right.) I had to go and see a doctor and got interrogated as to where I’d been and what I’d eaten etc. In my best little girly voice I replied, “Erm, I've eaten salads, food from street vendors (usually with mucky hands) and ceviches (a dish which is raw fish marinated in lemon juice and hot peppers). Oh, and I drank water from the tap in Cuenca.” At this point I noticed the doctors face turning a sickly green colour and he advised me to eat only cooked food and drink only boiled water from now on. He put me on a diet of bananas, toast, chicken soup (very good for the poorly apparently), plain white rice and apple sauce (which is strange as I've not seen apple sauce anywhere in Peru). It’s taken a couple of days but I’ve started to feel a little better.
So yesterday I went bouldering with Mel and Dave (guys at the hostel). Oh I was going good, my tummy was holding out, my little puny arms were pushing themselves as much as possible. I was onto my 5th boulder problem and going strong, when half way up I put my hand in a wasp's nest. Oh the pain, the agony. Fortunately I was only stung about 4 times on the hand but it put an end to my climbing for the day and probably for the next few as my hand is all red and too swollen to make a fist. Still, there's a New Zealand couple in the hostel that are hoping to do a 4 day trek starting tomorrow and I’ve asked if I can tag along so I might at least get some walking in. Fat little fingers crossed!
Hugs Jen xxxxxxxx
